It looks like I've been doing everything else correctly with regards to BALLSS list. While similar to the Gen 1, these LT1's are an animal all of their own. I've found that I have to "unlearn" many things and start fresh. Just passing on some pointers I addressed and will address again in using a spare LT1 converted to Carb for my 70 Nova.Īny "experience" that I have is under a very big, very shady tree. A torch directly on the offending plug until red hot and then applying some bees wax or paraffin to melt into the threads and then quickly using wrench to remove typically gets them outĪgain some of this if not all you may know. Getting back to removing that oil galley ball, there are various "plugs" in the block that need to be removed to properly clean it which can really be stubborn to remove. Some have installed solid ones but IMHO I would do as designers intended and use ones with the small hole in them They have a small hole in the middle of them (maybe just the outer two do) In theory the designers intended that these holes bleed off air from the oil galleries and to provide additional oil to the timing chain area. There are 3 soft plugs that seal the oil galleries above the cam. Note on your WP drive gear shaft, it has any groove in it from where it rode against the seal or has slop in the shaft, replace that gear unit. The crank seal you can grease/oil on the inner lip
LS1 CAM BEARINGS PINNING INSTALL
Both the WP drive seal and Opti seal of the TC install "dry" don't grease the inner lips. Home made variants can be made using the right size Sharpie "highlighter" pen body cut down (do a google search to see one) or the right size long socket where you put the seal on this "tool, put tool over the WP drive spline and use a larger socket to drive the seal in place. If you are installing the seals in TC after you put TC on motor the same Kent Moore tool (or ones sold on ebay like the pic I attached)work. Without this little tool the inner lip of that seal will fold over and a immediate oil leak will occur. On factory assembly the seals were installed in TC and then TC was placed on motor and over the WP drive spline. This seal installs just like any other TC seal with the exception that you need to use either the specific Kent Moore plastic cap that is tapered. This way you can properly clean the block, especially oil passages.and don't forget to re-install it on assembly drive this out from the top (using a LONG brass drift or 1/4"-5/16" brass rod) rear of the block through the hole where the oil pressure sensor was mounted. Not sure if this is specific to LT1/4's but there is a steel ball that plugs an intersection of the oil galley in the block It is located in the galley hole at the rear main cap mating surface adjacent to the oil filter boss.
LS1 CAM BEARINGS PINNING CRACK
the top of the oil pump drive gear can crack VERY easily if over TQ Oil pump drive is driven by cam using a shaft (recommend a ARP steel one).
Reverse flow cooling so cyl heads need the steam pipe I suspect you do know these differences between gen 1 SBC and gen 2 (LT1/4) and they really don't effect building the motor as much as just differences.Ĭam has a step-down nose and smaller bolt circle (two different snout configurations have been used during the production runs to further complicate matters) so using just any SBC cam won't work This may be SOP but just one example of detail advised by a builder way more qualified than me. 010 under as the edge of that hole would now be pretty sharp). Things like chamfering the oil holes "slightly" on cranks, especially after they have been ground. I bought mike's book more to better understand what procedures are necessary and some that just "go the extra mile" in terms of procedure in machine work. Sounds like you are ahead of me in skills/tools for that. I do leave machine work to qualified machine shops, including installing cam bearings, as I don't have the tools for that.
Well again I am no expert, just wrench on my own cars.
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